Skin Care Success

By Dr. Marcy Street, M.D.
Most people have either had acne, or an occasional battle with an unexpected blemish. There are hundreds of new products on the market today that promise the prevention of breakouts, the reduction in the time that they stay visible, or the ability to get rid of any scarring that occurs due to a breakout. Be an informed consumer.

When you go shopping for new products or weed through your old ones, have an understanding of what you should look for and what these new blemish-fighting ingredients do. Here are a few tips on the important new ingredients in acne and blemish skin care. Sometimes, depending on your particular skin type, finding success is a matter of trial and error, which can get really expensive. Therefore, you should ask your dermatologist which ones are best for your type of skin.

Often, the best first line of defense is an over-the-counter product that helps cleanse the skin, and unclog the pores of oil that can cause breakouts. Try using a facial cleanser that has salicylic acid once in the morning and once in the evening before bedtime. Many products include Alpha hydroxy and Beta hydroxy acids to help exfoliate the skin of its dry, dead layers which can clog pores, and give the skin a sallow appearance.

Glycolic acid products can also be helpful in getting rid of dead skin and stimulate healthy skin growth. Just make sure that the product is not too strong for your skin.

And while it is great to do gentle exfoliation as a part of your skin care, try not to use harsh exfoliating products that have large particles on acne or breakout-prone skin. Although gentle daily exfoliation is great for the skin, if the products are too strong, they can further inflame your skin and cause hyperpigmentation, scratching and scarring. Ingredients such as green tea extract, aloe vera, jojoba beads, and chamomile are often used for their calming and healing effect on the skin. They may help to reduce redness and irritation.

Youe probably heard a lot about retinoids, which are vitamin A-derived products. They are often used to improve sun-damaged skin and diminish the appearance of fine wrinkles and crow feet. But they are also used to help prevent acne, and to even out skin tone. With a dermatologist prescription, you get a much more concentrated amount of the active ingredient, and will probably see better results. You can still get many over-the-counter products, including creams and lotions, that contain some retinoids and have some of the same properties, but they are milder. Remember, the active ingredient you get in an over-the-counter product in a drugstore will not be as potent or give you the same result as a product developed or prescribed by your dermatologist.

Whatever you use, it is very important to use them exactly according to the directions. Using more product than is recommended will probably not make the acne go away quicker. It may irritate the skin and create new skin problems. Some products such as fruit acid based skin peels can actually burn the skin, if not applied properly and timed according to the directions. To learn what works best for you, put your face in the hands of a professional if you are just getting started.

Oils and bacteria are often the culprits in breakouts, so it important to use oil-free cleansers, moisturizers and other cosmetics, including your foundation. You can do a great job of keeping your skin clean and oil-free during your morning and evening skin care regimen and then totally undo it with an oily foundation that not only makes you shiny, but clogs your pores and traps bacteria. Also, beware of the oils that are in some hair products, conditioners and styling aids, as these can also contribute enough oil to cause new breakouts on your forehead and hairline. Cover your hairline when applying products and change your pillowcases often. These may go a long way to help prevent skin eruptions.

Products that contain hydroquinone, a chemical skin lightening agent that block the enzymes that produce melanin, are designed to help even skin tones due to hyperpigmentation, dark spots or scars. We have seen great results with hydroquinone in our practice; however, we are starting to use natural Biowhite, and Gigowhite, which are combinations of skin brighteners made from numerous plant extracts. They are hydroquinone-free, and can be used for milder pigment problems.

Whatever you use on your skin, it is essential to keep your skin clean with a good cleanser. Washing your face improves circulation, while toning the skin prepares the surface to accept the next steps in your skin care regimen. Also, break the habit of touching the skin on your face. By touching and rubbing already inflamed skin, you can spread bacteria that can worsen skin conditions. And remember, you should never try to pick at, or burst a pimple. It could get infected, and it can also damage the skin and cause long term scarring and dark marks.

It is also important to eat as lean?as possible. What you eat directly affects your overall health and appearance. Eat more fresh fruits and vegetables, and omit sugar-filled, acidic sodas. There is nothing better for your skin that loads of pure water. Patients who up their water intake, along with being vigilant about cleansing their skin, say that they have seen major changes in the appearance of their skin.

If you suffer from chronic acne or other skin problems it is best to get an initial assessment from your dermatologist. He or she can give you the best direction and advice.